Some Bromeliad Info
Bromeliads
Bromeliads (brΕ-ΛmΔ-lΔ-Λad) belong to the Bromeliaceae plant family, which encompasses over 3,000 species, approximately 56 genera, and about 6,000 hybrids and cultivars. Bromeliads, like other species, are divided into groups called genera. Different genera and species prefer varying light, water, and humid conditions contributed by their environments. In cultivation, the most commonly found genera are Aechmea, Billbergia, Cryptanthus, Dyckia, Guzmania, Neoregelia, Nidularium, Portea, Tillandsia, and Vriesea. All are native to the Americas with one existing in Africa. You can find them growing as abundantly north of the equator in the southern parts of the United States and Mexico while also thriving in South America from Ecuador to Chile and Argentina. Bromeliads entered recorded history over 500 years ago when Columbus introduced the pineapple (Ananas comosus) to Spain upon return from his second voyage to the New World in 1493.
In nature, bromeliads can be found in many climates and conditions: at sea level, in rain and cloud forests, deserts and on mountains as high as 13,000ft. Much of the species grow on trees as epiphytes or air plants while others grow on the ground, rocks, and cliff faces. Their roots are primarily for support from the host and are not parasites. Spanish moss and ball moss are bromeliads found across a very wide range, but the Ananas Comosus is the most familiar as it is the only edible fruit produced in the family. On the voyage of Columbus, he found it being cultivated by the Carib Indians in the West Indies. Within 50 years this tropical fruit was being cultivated in India and other Old World countries. The bromeliad species is incredibly versatile and contain some of the most adaptable plant families in the world. Bromeliads are very hardy, tough survivors proving their resilience, adaptability, and strength. Not only do they have a tremendous ability to survive; they offer infinite color combinations with interesting styles and forms. Such variability means that there is some bromeliad ideal for your conditions.
Bromeliads have simple requirements
- A firm support β either potted or mounted
- Reasonable temperature β 35 Β°F to 100 Β°F
- Moisture depends on species β low to high humidity; moist but not wet roots
- Light also depends on species β from deep shade toΒ full sun
- Fertilizer requirements vary by species β from none to heavy, weekly feeding
Some good rules to follow are
- Roots need firm support whether the plant is mounted or potted.
- Maintain humidity requirements and good air circulation.
- Provide preferred light conditions unless acclimating.
- Allow for good drainage.
- Avoid extremes of temperature or changes in environment.
No to do
- Over water or allow water to become stagnant.
- Allow to become completely dried out.
- Over fertilize. (Be especially cautious during the winter.)
- Move suddenly from deep shade to full sun.
- Place plants directly in the air flow from heating or cooling areas.
Light requirements vary with each specie, cultivar, or hybrid. All bromeliads require some form of direct, partial or highly shaded light in order to perform optimally. Knowing the environment is important to placing a bromeliad in its desired conditions. With intense light conditions, it is imperative to ensure enough watering occurs to prevent drying out. For deeply shaded areas, it is important to ensure overwatering does not occur. There are a few select varieties that stand full sun with a break of shade. The majority of bromeliads require a break to reduce stress, blanching (extracting/bleaching of color), sunburn spots, and/or holes.
Bromeliads, in general, can be a bit tricky when it comes to color. The amount of light they receive greatly affects their leaf color and shape. With low light levels, their leaves tend to grow slightly larger and greener. In contrast, high light levels will make the leaves grow smaller, and their colors will become warmer. For example, purples will turn redder, and greens will shift to a yellow-green hue.
Bromeliads absorb water and nutrients mainly through their leaves and through the cups at the base of their leaves. Many bromeliads are from tropical areas and prefer high humidity conditions. However, take care not to overwater since they don’t like wet feet.
Keep the central cup filled with fresh water. Do not allow water to get old or stagnant, otherwise rot can occur. Water should be room temperature and poured directly into the center cup allowing water to run through the central reservoir and into the soil medium. Root system watering is just as important as the cup. Frequency of watering depends highly on the bromeliad variety as well as the temperature and humidity of the environment. Mist plants a couple times a week if humidity is 50-60%, daily if lower.
The three numbers in a fertilizer formula represent the proportion of the three essential macro-nutrients β Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium β in that order of N-P-K. Fertilizers used generally range from 20-10-20 (Peat Lite Special), to 20-10-30 to a balanced formula with equal amounts of the three. The frequency and strength of applications is dependent on many factors such as the type of bromeliad, temperature, and growing conditions. It is advisable to feed bromeliads with dilute, soluble fertilizer at about 1/8 to Β½ the strength specified on the label.
The best soil mix for bromeliads is light, airy, fast-draining, and slightly acidic, mimicking their natural epiphytic or terrestrial environments. Here’s a professional-grade mix recommendation, plus variations based on the type of bromeliad.
πΏ Ideal Bromeliad Soil Mix (General Use)
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1 part orchid bark or pine bark (for structure and aeration)
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1 part perlite or pumice (for drainage)
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1 part coco coir or peat moss (for moisture retention & acidity)
This mix provides a balance of moisture retention and airflow while preventing waterlogging, which bromeliads are highly sensitive to.
π± Optional Additions (Based on Specific Needs)
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Charcoal (Β½ part): Helps purify soil, improves drainage, reduces odor
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Sphagnum moss: Boosts moisture retention for drier environments
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Sand (coarse): Improves drainage and adds weight for top-heavy plants
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Worm castings (small amount): Offers light nutrition, if desired
π Type-Specific Notes
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Epiphytic bromeliads (e.g., Tillandsia, Vriesea, Guzmania):
Use more orchid bark and perlite; can even mount without soil if humidity is adequate. -
Terrestrial bromeliads (e.g., Dyckia, Cryptanthus):
Prefer a more moisture-retentive mix with a bit more peat/coco coir. -
Alcantarea or Aechmea:
These tolerate a slightly heavier mix but still need sharp drainageβconsider adding lava rock or extra perlite.
π§ Tip: Watering with slightly acidic water (pH 5.5β6.5) and avoiding constant moisture at the crown helps prevent rot.
Most bromeliads will tolerate a broad range of temperature from 95Β°F/29Β°C high to a low of 34Β°F/1.1Β°C. The optimum ranges are 70Β°-90Β°F/21.1Β°-32.2Β°C during the day and 50Β°-60Β°F/10Β°-15Β°C during the night. Air circulation is most desirable for bromeliads, especially in hot conditions. Cold air does not hold much humidity whereas hotter air can. Relatively, humidity for bromeliads should be between 50 -70%
In bromeliad species, blooming occurs in different stages, seasons, and naturally they will slowly die after blooming.
Bromeliads bloom by either shooting a slender spike inflorescence out of its cup (I.e. Aechmea) or flowers from inside the center cup (I.e. Neoregelia). As the mother slowly dies, offsets/pups will also grow to start over.
Most epiphytic (attached to a tree) and saxicolous (attached to a rock) bromeliads develop hold-fast roots. The plant must be firmly affixed to its support so that the tender root tips can attach to the support.
Almost anything is usable for a mounting surface: cork slabs, stone pieces, wood slabs, lava rock, and driftwood. Salt must be removed from items that have been in sea water. Soaking for two weeks, completely submerged, with frequent water changes, is recommended to remove the deposits.